In the early’90’s Bali’s restaurant scene was sparse. Today Bali is home to a vibrant Culinary Culture. Leon Brasserie represents the best of both. Our publisher, Sarah, and Umulas local, Mandi, weigh in on the past and the present.
Warisan on Jl Raya Kerobokan began as an Italian restaurant until culinary duo Said and Doudou transformed it into the island’s favourite French restaurant. Years later, the pair moved on to open the legendary Metis.
It became the restaurant to beat and as a younger food and travel writer, I famously described one dish on their menu as ‘the dish that made me moan’. With pleasure, not pain. I had first tried it at Warisan and it remained on the menu at Metis, a classic dish that won over many who turned their noses up at offal.
Chef Doudou has hung up his apron but his former partner, Said, has opened Leon Brasserie in peaceful Umulas. When I discovered the legendary pan-seared foie gras with apple and raspberry vinaigrette on the menu I squealed. Not only does the menu reflect celebrated moments, but so does the staff; Bartender Kadek began working at Warisan in 1996. His cocktails are nostalgic and classic, as are his stories.
In the kitchen, many of Doudou’s team have returned and favourites like the weekly couscous recipes round out a classic French menu of fresh oysters, steaks, seafood and iconic desserts like a ginger creme brulee.
We asked an Umulas local, Mandi, to revisit Leon for us, a new regular on her coveted list of favourites that she shares with her food-loving visitors.
Mandi:
From the fabulous team that bought us Métis is the relatively new gem on Jl Bumbak in Umalas has become a neighbourhood favourite for my husband and I.
From the minute we arrive, there’s an instant sense of welcome.
Dimly lit and cosy, we’re ushered to the bar and offered delicious canapés before being seated at our table, complimentary! It’s a sign of the hospitality we enjoy on every visit.
These can (and really should!) be washed down with wonderful cocktails; the mixologists here seriously know what they’re doing and put on a show for each drink! If you’re lucky enough to find Kadek behind the bar, you can share a little Bali history.
Once seated at your table, you’re presented with a menu that is difficult to narrow down, as it all sounds so good…and it is! Delicious, classic French dishes that leave us wanting to revisit and try more of the menu. Unfortunately, our eyes are always bigger than our bellies, the portions are generous.
For starters, it’s hard to go past their legendary foie gras, pan-fried and layered with apple, topped with a tangy raspberry vinaigrette. The palette-cleansing goat’s cheese salad is another of our favourites.
For the main course, the Two Ways Duck and the Scallops & Prawn Provençal are an absolute hit and traditionally French tasting.
And you wouldn’t feel like you were in France in Bali if you didn’t end with the profiteroles, yum!! Mind you, the ginger scented creme brulee is pretty spectacular too. Mind you can choose the dessert tasting plate and try them all!
Drop in on a Thursday for L’Apero and get special prices on cocktails with complimentary canapes from 5.30 – 8 PM, and if you’re an oyster fan, you’ll love the fresh oyster bar.
