A Perfect Day in Bali – local surfers own the famous breaks.  

In many ways, surfing in Bali has never been better than during this global Covid-19 pandemic as local surfers reclaim the waves.

By Matt George of Surftime Magazine.

Photos by Pete Frieden and Liquid Barrel

That’s the thing about an island. The water goes all the way around it.  

And so do the waves. And in many ways, Bali has never been better for local surfers who continue to inspire the next generation to take to the waves. The Balinese have always known how to return to the simple ways of the past and lead the way in embracing the island and protecting it against the onslaught of tourism and over-development. The surf community in Bali also leads the way in sustainable practices and taking care of the ocean and the beaches that are their playground.

There’s always a slice of paradise if you know where to look.  

We’ve survived the pandemic and taken care of each other after past disasters, but the one place that is always crowded with visitors is the surfing line-ups. Nothing can stop international surfers from digging up the treasure of waves that Bali has on call just about every day of the year. Indeed, many savvy surfers flocked to Bali following events that threatened tourism, knowing the line-ups here would have a fall-off in numbers. But the difference during the recent Pandemic is with zero international visitors allowed, the line-ups returned to the age of discovery. Surfers here no longer had to imagine what it was like “way back when”.

With most surfers making their way to the big-name spots, all the in-between surf breaks are reeling off unattended. This makes it easier than ever, now that the beaches are open and the Indian Ocean has decided to provide non-stop swell, to have that perfect day. Like time travellers, surfers here are revelling in the conditions of the past but in a very modern way. 

10:00am

With the mists cleared and the ocean cleaning up, the move was made south to Keramas, where the crew found Betet Merta ripping through the more forgiving morning conditions. Betet Merta spent his lockdown training hard with a boxing regimen that would frighten most pros. Now that the line-ups are open, it looks like all that hard work has paid off.  Set free from a crowded line-up and being the first guy out at Keramas on this day, it was Betet’s session from the start. Though weighing in as a Junior Welterweight, his moves here at his favourite spot were definitely in the heavyweight division.  

10:42am

A real class act, veteran Marlon Gerber has the only surfer carving 360 on the island. Having learned it here at Keramas from family friend Kelly Slater, Marlon completes these with a combination of perfect timing and grace. He also shows up well-rested, being the only surfer who travels to the island’s waves with his family using local transport. “Easier to change a diaper that way” He quips.  

10:55am

Next up is top-rated local Kailani Johnson, who is gaining more respect with every wave she rides. A committed pro surfer with an eye on the future, she has been seeking out the heaviest conditions to stake her claim in a predominately male world here. Still, her smaller wave act is electric.  

11:25am

Still in fighting shape at 45 years of age, Rizal Tandjung shows us why he’s earned the moniker, ‘ultimate scoutmaster’. Even though he is carting the younger generation around the island, he still gives the young guns a run for their money at Keramas. Rizal regularly sets height records in the wake of his devastating backside re-entry’s. On this day at Keramas, no one else was even coming close.

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