Here in the hills, the days are cooler, and the nights are made for red wine and stories shared around the fire pit. Umah Lusa is a stylish boutique estate located in the clove and coffee-scented village of Pedawa, perched in picturesque fashion above the Lovina coast.
You can see the sea from up here but there are so many other things to enjoy on the property, you’ll be tempted to look within. If you love design and revel in beautiful details you’ll likely be inspired to go home and renovate. I know I was.
Designed with passion – Umah Lusa captures Bali’s beauty.
Owners Luke and Satria have created an idyllic escape here. English jewellery designer, Luke, is the owner of Jemme, a high-end boutique and popular restaurant in Seminyak. Satria, a trained architect, is co-owner of Carga, a stylish homewares and gift shop.
Satria grew up in Denpasar but his family home is in Seririt, a neighbouring village. “So little has changed up here and we wanted to create a place that felt like Bali, that introduced people to the graceful way of life that Bali is celebrated for, its rich history and the traditions of the Balinese,” he explains over dinner.
They sourced beautiful old teak joglos for the accommodation and had them restored in Jepara, a village in Java where artisans still carve by hand. Although this building style is recognised as Bali-style, it owes much to the Javanese and Dutch colonisation. Whatever you call it this boutique hotel with sweeping views will delight you with the details.
Clove and Coffee-scented breezes recall Bali’s past.
Intricately carved ceilings in natural teak, hand-crafted tile floors in soft hues, fresh orchids blooming in the rooms and bathrooms, room diffusers that fill the spaces with floral and spiced scents, beautiful art and objects that add character to the rooms and beautifully styled classic furniture. The private, self-contained suites are spacious and light, with space for an armchair and ottoman, a lounge, and a writing desk to channel your inner Margaret Mead. Each seductive creamy stone bathroom has a bathtub that fills quickly and efficiently with warm water, natural salts and foaming scents provided to invoke the senses.
It’s not simply the design and the thoughtful details that make Umah Lusa a great idea. The two-and-a-half-hour drive from South Bali takes you through some of the most beautiful and unspoiled parts of Bali, over mountains, through villages unchanged by time, natural forests, lakes and waterfalls. We stopped in Bedugul, at the stunning Handara golf course, for a pit stop on the way and visited an orchid farm to see rare varieties.
From generous dining to intimate spa sessions.
At Umah Lusa you’ll find a beautiful pool and hot tub lined with graceful lounges to enjoy the views. The soft green of the cushions play beautifully with pink umbrellas lined up like a Hollywood set. A sunset offering includes a foot massage and cocktail while you watch the sky turn pink and the lights of Lovina start to twinkle.
A separate joglo houses the reception and the restaurant, where the menu reflects Jemme’s wonderful English/Indo menu, with offerings like lamb shanks slow-cooked in Guinness and sop buntut, a rich oxtail soup served with traditional condiments.
Local farms provide inspiration and fresh produce.
Farm-fresh vegetables and herbs come from their farm located just 20 minutes away. It is a popular place for guests to visit and learn more about local crops including the native cloves that grow wild up here. The trees are being harvested during our visit, it’s a rare chance to see farmers scale soaring single-stem ladders made from bamboo to reach the treasured crop. The scent gentles perfumes the breeze and mingles with the coffee also grown here.
Their spa is housed in a purpose-built carved teak joglo. With just two massage beds, Luke and Satria indulge their guests in traditional treatments, including the heady boreh, a scrub made from local cloves that provides warm heat and nourishes the skin in the most sublime way. A steam room and sauna are also provided. It’s all very indulgent.
For those who’d rather explore than recline, (the soft sofa on my private verandah comes to mind), this is an area with wonderful things to see and do. Visit Lovina Beach to swim with the dolphins and enjoy local seafood. Tour the farms and see ancient temples to learn more about Bali’s vibrant spiritual life. For adventurers, there are nature walks and waterfalls to explore. Go a little further to enjoy diving in Bali’s protected coral gardens or shop for local arts and crafts.
Owners Luke and Satria bring style and Passion to Umah Lusa.
Both Luke and Satria are keen gardeners, Satria also owns a garden shop in Kerobokan, so the gardens thriving here in the cooler mountain climate are a joy, filled with glorious flowering plants and native varieties. A terraced garden is home to some English varieties that Luke has brought home and three types of fragrant gardenias thrive.
The staff is gracious in their hospitality. They slide quietly over garden paths, dressed in traditional sarongs, and offer service when needed. Coffee machines and local tea are included with the mini bar, making early risers like me very happy. The sunrise is as pretty as the sunset, and you can enjoy both at this elevation.
Waking up at Umah Lusa is blissful. With an aromatic coffee, I relax on my terrace as the pool reflects the sunrise and enjoy the softly-scented breeze. A book in hand, I’m distracted by the beauty that surrounds me. Content to simply take it in, I imagine those who fell in love with Bali in her golden age, as far back as the 1920’s, would have felt like I do; a sense that this place nurtures you in such a special way.
Uma Lusa offers six spacious suites on the property, and prices start from around Rp 4 million per night (around AUD$400+).
