Amed hasn’t changed that much in decades, rather it has stretched. Following the coastline of North Bali, Amed is spread out over kilometres of beachfront. The sand is dark and there’s still a splash of the former hippy hangout it was, but there’s a lot more choice now.
Mostly you notice the serenity in Amed. The dark sand beaches are washed by still calm water and there are some beautiful coral gardens and abundant sea life. Not everywhere mind, blast fishing has wiped out some of the best reefs but restoration projects are helping bring it back.
There’s barely a town, rather you’ll find a stretch with a few notable boutiques and cafes. Most of the action happens on the beach. We went on a girl’s trip to celebrate a birthday. The birthday girl had her heart set on a climb to Pura Lempuyang, 1700 – 2400 steps. See our climber’s guide below if you’d like to conquer the climb! One of us was keen, two of us said, ‘See you at the pool’!
Where To Stay:
Salt Resort & Spa is one of the first hotels along the coast. A boutique hotel with spacious rooms, many with ocean views, was a lucky find. It is so cute, fresh and very clean. On our first night, we celebrated with an excellent seafood dinner at the resort. The snapper was so fresh and perfectly cooked. The dinner also included grilled prawns and satay, Balinese salads, rice, mashed potatoes and a green salad.
The blue and white restaurant overlooks the beach and the staff were lovely. The birthday girl ordered a cake from a bakery she found online – a red velvet. She’d sent a photo of a cake design and they nailed it. The cake wasn’t the best red velvet I’ve eaten but kudos to them for nailing the brief.
The Spa is well-priced and if we’d stayed longer we definitely would have indulged. The rate per night is very friendly on the wallet and it’s a lovely little hotel to lay your head for a few nights.
Coral View is a small collection of bungalows set in a beautiful garden with a pool. Coral View is on Lipah Beach, at the other end of Amed. This beach is where to head for snorkelling as the sand is a bit whiter and the coral is beautiful. Chances are good you’ll see turtles and lots of brilliant tropical fish.
The rooms are large, and comfortable, with most offering terraces overlooking the garden. There are a few family-sized bungalows with ocean views available. I’d recommend this for those who want to be close to the snorkelling action and like somewhere a bit more traditional.
Where to eat and drink in Amed:
This place is featured on every blog about Amed. It’s a large pool club that has a great view of the sun setting behind Mt Agung. Aside from that, it’s a little crass – Kuta By The Sea kind of thing. There’s a cover charge to sit at a table but stools around the edge are free. There’s a tiered pool which is in demand at sunset time. Order something simple – a beer or juice and then head out for food after sunset.
Blue Earth Village reminds me of Amed of old – there’s a real hippy vibe at the two-story restaurant opposite Sunset Point. The two-story restaurant is popular and also offers a sunset view. Vegetarians and vegans will love this menu but there’s plenty to satisfy everyone including some good pizza and pasta dishes.
Upstairs is busy with low tables and booths, downstairs there are also seats in the garden. They have delicious cakes and desserts. Blue Earth Village is all about homemade goodness and most things are made in-house.
Gusto is at the Lipah Beach end of Amed. The elevated restaurant overlooks the coast so it’s nice for lunch but gets busy throughout the day.
They offer some local dishes, a pasta menu and Hungarian specialities including a hearty baked casserole and wiener schnitzel. The schnitzel is delicious. They have a nice menu of non-alcoholic drinks including a vibrant basil and lime squash and a spicy ginger, lemon and honey sparkling water.
With a bakery on site, the bread and cakes are fresh and delicious. The beer and wine menu is limited so BYO if you’re after something a bit better.
A fairly recent addition, Baker Street Bakery is located on Amed Beach in what passes for the town. It’s surprising to find delicious, fresh croissants of this quality in Amed but we’re not complaining. Loaves of sourdough and crisp baguettes are often sold out so order ahead if you have a kitchen and enjoy fresh bakes.
The variety of croissants – from plain to pain au chocolate with delicious dark chocolate filling and an interesting one rolled with cookie dough, were very tempting and we ordered a few to try. They were excellent. There are some cookies and cinnamon buns laid out on the counter. It’s small and sells out quickly but it’s a very nice addition.
Amed offers some great seafood.
Seafood is big here as the community is big on fishing. Most hotels have seaside restaurants selling grilled fish, prawns and a good mix of local dishes and western favourites. Most places offer a pizza, a burger and some salad.
Amed isn’t about flash restaurants but they’ve been feeding travellers for a long time and the experience shows. Keep it simple and just enjoy the break, the serene beaches and the charming hotels. Climb a mountain if you must, visit local temples, join a diving group or just snorkel directly off the beach, and enjoy the sunset and the sunshine.
Amed is a great destination for a short break and if you’re travelling to see more of the ‘real bali’, it’s a good place to start. Drives along the coast towards Lovina, up into the mountain villages, or across to Candi Dasa are all part of the attraction of Amed.
Conquering Lempuyang Temple: A Climber's Guide
Lempuyang Temple, with its stunning views of Mt. Lempuyang and majestic gates, is a must-visit in Bali. But before you embark on this adventure, here are some insider tips to make your climb smooth sailing (or at least less leg-aching!)
Planning:
- Entrance Fee: Pack a small donation of around 20,000 IDR per person.
- Sarong: It’s mandatory at temples. Rent one (10,000 IDR) or bring your own. While hiking in a sarong might feel awkward, constantly taking it on and off is even trickier. Most people hike with them.
Choosing Your Path:
There are 3 main routes, with options to shorten the climb:
- The Casual Explorer (30-45 mins): Perfect for those who want to soak in the beauty without a strenuous hike. Two temples close to the parking area offer great photo opportunities and require minimal climbing.
- The Strategic Climber (2-3 hours): Take a moped taxi to the second temple area and conquer the remaining 1700 steps to the top. This saves you energy for the steeper sections and offers stunning views (weather permitting). Remember, good shoes are crucial – these steps are steep and can get slippery!
- The Full Monty Climber (3-4 hours): This route’s for the truly adventurous. Hike the entire way up to the second temple area, explore the loop with 3 additional temples, and then ascend to the top (2400 steps in total!). It’s a long haul, so consider taking a moped taxi back down – your legs will thank you.
Monkey Business:
Be mindful of the monkeys you might encounter at the upper temples. While they generally won’t attack, they can be assertive. Stay calm, avoid eye contact, and don’t show fear.
Gear Up:
- Footwear: Ditch the beach sandals! Opt for sturdy shoes or hiking boots for proper support on those slippery steps.
- Weather: Pack a light rain jacket. The weather can change quickly as you climb.
A Rewarding Challenge:
Lempuyang Temple is both a challenging climb and a spiritual experience. By planning ahead and choosing the route that suits you, this climb will be one of your most unforgettable adventures in Bali!
